The Icelandic 500 Expedition, which has taken four years to plan, sets out to achieve the first ever winter crossing of Iceland. It would require a four man team, each pulling a load of 200 lbs, pulking 500 miles over mountainous and windswept terrain in Arctic conditions. The aim was not only to be the first team to complete the crossing, but to raise £50,000 towards the International Spinal Research Trust; who are surprising close to ending the permanence of paralysis.

The crossing party consisted of Corporal Sean Chapple (Expedition Leader), Colour Sergeant Dave Thomas (Technical Advisor), Marine Alan Chambers (Medic/Treasurer), and Marine Tim Welford (Equipment Manager). Based at the NATO Naval Air Station in Keflavik, Corporal Ian Robinson and myself provided back up and a liasion with US and Icelandic officials. Back in the UK a Rear Link Detachment was run by Corporal Mark Stuckey and Marine Alan Thomson.

Over the last year the team has been based at Lympstone preparing for the expedition, embarking on various courses and training packages in Dartmoor and Wales, with a trials period spent in Norway. Under the guidance of Sergeant Dave Tenison PTI, an intense fitness training program was run, which included pulk pulling along Exmouth beach.

To ensure the chances of success was at its highest, advice was sought from notable Arctic veterans such as Warrant Officer John Kimbrey RM, Roger Mear and Ranulph Fiennes. Working closely with Dr Michael Stroud a special diet was drawn up, our requirements being low weight and high energy. The disadvantage being that each individual needed to consume 100gms of concentrated oil each evening.

As time moved on, freight was loaded and sent by RAF and civil shipping in early February, to be stored by the Americans until our arrival. With stores safely dispatched a press launch was held at the Royal Albert Hall, with the Commandant General and Jimmy Saville in attendance.

On Sunday 26 February the team, in high spirits and matching 'Gucci' jackets met at Heathrow airport ready to start the venture.

On arrival we were met by Captain Aeshbach USMC and Gunny Button USMC of the USMC Security Force Company (USMCSFC). The USMCSFC were to provide accommodation, operations room, vehicles and administration support. Once at the Air Station a quick tour was given by Major David Chase, the Commanding Officer the USMCSFC, and we settled down into what was to be our home for the next few months. With one week left in civilization before flying to the west coast, the pulks were repacked, plans reviewed and a press launch held at the British Embassy.

On Friday 3 March the team flew out to Patreksfjordur, the nearest airport to the start point, to met with local rescue teams who were to insert them. That night a final briefing was held, communications were established and final checks were made on the local's snowmobiles. PO Jan Brayley, RN Photographer, was in attendance to provide an account of the teams start.

THE CROSSING

Stage 1 - Bjartangar to Bru in Hrutafjordur

At dawn on the morning of the 5 March they were inserted into Iceland's most westerly point. This itself required the support of two rescue teams with six snowmobiles and one snowcat; at this point one local commander was to comment it would be two days before he would have to rescue us!

The crossing itself was to be supported by three major re-supply points with a further two emergency/back up points if required. The major re-supplies consisted of rations, fuel, consumable and personal items. The other resupply points would be used mainly for batteries. All re-supplies were preferably to be conducted under the active supervision of at least one member of the support team.

This stage was thought to be the hardest overall, mainly due to the terrain over what is commonly known as 'Five Fingers,' due to its shape. The region is very mountainous and notorious for unpredictable weather - avalanche risk in the region was at a record high. With the team loads being at their largest and storms forecast it was clearly not going to be easy.

Once the team began reports came each evening, the team were using mobile telephone to communicate with us and VHF handsets for internal use. From Sean's reports it was clear the team were finding the going extremely hard. The report received from Sean was not good. Tim's sledge trace had snapped and Alan's knee cartilage had disengaged from the back of the knee. Communications then broke off.

A comprehensive safety cover plan had been drawn up in line with HQRM and Icelandic authorities guidelines. We now moved what was known a Level Four; at Level One a Search and Rescue Mission is put into action. We now were required to man our communications round the clock and update numerous agencies on progress.

The following day we received a call that all was well. Tim had managed to improvise a replacement trace and Alan had been able to stabilise his knee and make use of a knee brace. It was discussed that a 24 hour monitor was not a practical option, due to the terrain a breakdown in communications was a constant possibility. A quick call to Major Marco Hekkens RNLMC, our sponsoring officer at Headquarters Royal Marines gave us the go-ahead to alter this procedure.

Progress proceeded at a much faster rate than anticipated with an average of 15 kilometres covered daily. On day 9 we received reports from the US Operations Weather centre that the team could expect a severe blizzard in the next 24 hours. This was passed onto the team who decided to push on as delays were to be avoided at this early stage. From reports received the team were moving in white-out conditions for four days, a tense period for us back at the base.

Day 16 was the teams first resupply which was to be conducted from an old school. Ian and myself supported by Chief Jim Striecher USN (driver attached to the expedition), set off to meet the team.

Throughout this first stage the lads had been craving bread and milk, and although they were obviously hungry the specially designed rations were doing the trick and there were no visible signs of weight loss. The beards had started growing and it was noted that both Alan and Tim had a long way to go.

Whilst in the comfort of the school we were due to conduct promotional photographs for our sponsors. However we were now in low ground with an unexpected warm front closing in. Now surrounded by rapidly thawing snow we decided to postpone the event.

Having thoroughly 'pigged out' on home baked goodies supplied by the girls from the Base and repairs made to equipment the team were eager to set out on stage two. After speaking to the weather centre Sean decided to set of one day earlier than planned, a cold system was moving in which would bring fresh snow.

THE INTERIOR

Stage two - Bru to Laugafell

After leaving the exposed Western side of the island, the next stage took the team into the interior. This terrain was vastly different to that encountered so far. The interior in general is desolate, barren with volcanic cones protruding across the un-inhabitable landscape.

This was a particularly fast stage with the team averaging 30 kilometres per day. The difference in terrain was obvious by the increase in pace and was, therefore, significantly less of a strain on the equipment. The main problem encountered during this stage was the wind; with gusts up to 80 knots being experienced.

Once again the team were ahead of schedule and a pre-planned possible battery resupply was bypassed. This supply was due to be inserted by the Reykjavik Air Ground Rescue Organisation (FBS).

Due to the good progress, the team decided to push on to the next main re-supply at Laugafell. This marked the halfway point of the crossing and is in the heart of the interior.
The supplies were taken overland by the FBS, with batteries and mail being flown in by the US 56th Helicopter Rescue Service (56th RQS).

Having received their supplies the team proceeded to sit out a severe three day blizzard. Fortunately our daily weather updates (from the US Weather Operations Centre), proved accurate and we able to forewarn the crossers. It was during this period that three Icelanders (attempting a North-South crossing), were rescued by the 56th RQS after getting into difficulties. A total of four rescue missions were conducted in the interior during the teams crossing - fortunately not the lads.

Stage three - Laugafell to Egilsstadir

According to previous research and weather updates the conditions were going to get warmer with less snow fall expected. This would therefore be a significant stage of the trip and one which we all most concerns with. As the team moved into the Odadahraun, notorious for high winds and large lava fields, we waited with anticipation for their progress reports. If the snow cover was not sufficient the team would need to manhandle their loads, practised extensively in Norway and not an option the team wished.

From reports it seemed that although large expanses of lava were protruding the snow they were able to pick a route through the lava fields. Again good progress was made.

Once clear of the lava fields the team once again waited for an incoming storm to pass by. This time the storm changed direction so the team were able to move on in much warmer temperatures. Weather conditions now changed drastically horizontal rain and skiing across leads of grass.

It was now time to set up the final resupply at Egilsstadir. Ian flew into the town and established a resupply point and finalised arrangements for the teams rest period. Anna Henly a freelance journalist also arrived, much to the delight of four men who have spent 35 days in the wilderness. All went to plan and the team soon moved off.

THE FINAL PUSH

Stage 4 Egilsstadir to Gerpir

This stage was very different to those encountered previously. With approximately a weeks work left to endure, rations and equipment would not necessitate the use of pulks. All pulks were left with Ian and the team moved on with berghans.

The first part required the team to yomp along a mountain road. This turned out to be very demanding, as muscles used for skiing are vastly different to those used for yomping. Therefore, old blisters returned and by reports received the team were finding the going very hard.

The final hurdle was a large ridge line that required a full days technical rope work to get the team into Sandvik Bay and Gerpir.

The team successfully reached the most Eastern point at 2100 hrs on Wednesday 19 April 1995 (the first day of summer). But for them the walk had not ended! The recovery by boat into the bay was not possible due to bad weather so the team had to re-cross the ridge into a calmer neighbouring bay.

Here they were met by a VIP party consisting of Brigadier Tailyour RM, the Corps RSM, Major M Hekkens RNLMC, the Commando News Team and various Icelandic rescue personnel. After champagne and photos the group moved back by sea to Neskaupstadur. Here the mayor invited the party into nearby hotel for a small reception party. A quick drive back to Egilsstadir and a chartered flight to Reykjavik completed a very successful expedition.