| On the morning of 3rd March 1995 the team flew into Patreksfjordur, the nearest airport to Latrabjarg (a 14km long precipitous cliff, the largest in the North Atlantic), Westernmost point of Iceland and Europe. On meeting members of the NLAI, the day was spent finalising the move plan, meeting the local Mayor and Chief of Police and obtaining local advice on the Western Highlands. Movement during this area would be the most difficult due to mountainous terrain, sastrugi and high winds.
The insertion phase would require the assistance of two rescue teams (the Blakkur and Braedrabandio), six snowmobiles and one snowcat. Rarely visited during Iceland's winter months, for some of the rescue team members it was to be 'a first'. The following morning the group departed at 4am for the start point.
My diary extract:
4 March - Day 1 Minus 9°C, visibility excellent
"...the local rescue team commander not very confident in our chances of success. About a six hour move to the start point - Bjartangar, Europe's most Westerly point. Said our farewells to the team then set off at 1330hrs. Noticing the 90kg load, cramp in legs with all the team..."
The team had previously been warned of a region known as the Glama Highlands; local advice was that if a bad weather front moved in, it could delay them for up to a week. If the team were to move south, avoiding the area, they would need to negotiate the vast Fjords that cut into the coastline. The Glama, a large plateau, was a more direct route with no objective dangers and would save valuable time. The decision was made to cross the Glama.
Soon after entering the region the weather deteriorated rapidly, with white-out conditions prevailing. This is caused when the winds stir up lying snow, making it impossible to distinguish between ground and sky; or even to discern objects at a distance of two metres. The team moved on compass bearings alone, pacing out the distance. Every ten paces a compass check was carried out, with every sixty paces equaling approximately 100 metres.
My diary extract:
12 March - Day 9 Minus 11 °C, visibility nil.
"...well what a day - time now 2050, just got into my sleeping bag. Damp and clammy, the usual awful first 10 minutes climbing in. Lead the first 2½ hr leg today, knee deep snow all the way, bloody hard work. Present campsite perched on the edge of a slope, winds very high (40 knots plus), heavy snowfall. All suffering with damp kit. Although conditions are bad we did cover 15km, but veered 1500 metres too far north. DT is cooking tonight so I get a ½ hour lay in tomorrow..."
My diary extract:
14 March - Day 11 Minus 10°C, visibility 10 metres.
"...found the first two stages very hard today, the flat is not too bad but on the slightest climb, my legs are like jelly. At times I became convinced that someone had played a trick and put a weight in my sledge. The clouds cleared after we made camp. A rainbow appeared around the sun, clear blue sky, vast open plains all around with an odd spiral shaped mountain in the far distance visible. Like another world. I hope the last three days storms have passed, quite a demanding period..."
Having safely negotiated the Glama Highlands, the team moved South to follow the coastline before turning East once more. The first resupply location was now in sight. Initially planned to be organised at Bru, this needed to be altered to a school (Reykskoli), 20 kilometres further north. With transport being provided by the US Navy's Public Works Office, Ian and Steve arrived at the school 24 hours prior to the team.
Accompanying the team was Chief Jim Streicher USN, a four wheel drive expert, to ensure the supplies reached Reykskoli safely. Equipped with mobile telephone and VHF radio they were able to maintain the communications link. Moving into the school the crossers spent a four day period resting, repairing equipment, repacking sledges and working through the mountain of food baked by women admirers on the Air Station.
My diary extract:
21 March - Day 18 Static at resupply one.
"...spent most of the day repacking sledges and loading rations for the next two resupply locations. Worked out at 15 and 24 days. A little under my planned safety margin, but still within 20%. Fuel remaining at 50% extra. Meeting tonight on the next phase of plans, our strategy for the coming days - take it steady, stick to the 9 hour schedule and don't 'chase the ice cream'..."
On leaving the school the team moved into the interior, a vast open tundra void of fauna and flora. Totally uninhabited and rarely visited during the winter. The team were ready to increase they daily mileage with the expected flat terrain and anticipated snow cover. A typical day would consist of reveille at 7.30am to have breakfast, carry out any medical treatment required and moving off by 9am. At the end of the day an hour was usually spent erecting the tent and constructing a wall of snow as protection. Once inside medical checks were carried out, main meals prepared, map and log books updated and contact made with the Support Team to receive a weather forecast.
My diary extract:
23 March - Day 20 Minus 9°C, visibility excellent, blue sky.
"..surprised ourselves by the distance covered today. Very flat, it looks like a frozen ocean. 9 hours hauling now the norm. Our first stop, usual routine - skis off, harness unclipped, sit on pulk, back to wind, duvet jacket on, eat scran, drink flask; wind and snow howling around. In these conditions no one speaks, each in his own world. 30-40 minutes later we move off again. Move fast for first 20 minutes to rewarm - when the duvet comes off it’s like being naked. TW very slow today - unusual..."
As an additional aid to map and compass the team carried a Global Positioning Satellite System (GPS). A compact, waterproof and hand held device it uses satellites to compute a fix of your current location. It displays your exact location and altitude to within 100 metres, depending on the amount of satellites 'locked in'. Initially used at the end of each day to confirm position, it was used progressively more due to the increased effect of the Palaeomagnetism in the interior.
My diary extract:
27 March - Day 24 Minus 10°C, visibility excellent.
"...had an awful nights sleep, I was shattered today. The first 3 hour leg was 'hard' to say the least, it was a case of totally switching off and push one foot ahead of the other. If I didn't have my poles I'm sure I would have fallen over - not felt that weak for a while. Out by about 3km when we stopped, will use GPS after every hour to confirm location. AC flashing a lot today, today it was about a lack of bed-space in the tent at nighttime!..."
My diary extract:
30 March - Day 27 Plus 10 °C, wet spindrift.
"...SW/S winds at 40 knots, temp plus ten and unexpected onset of horizontal wet spindrift. All wet apart from TW, who had salopettes on – smart move. At times it was painful, felt like needles being pushed into your legs and face. I was gritting my teeth a few times I know that!! AC had a treat for us tonight, an 'After Eight' each..."
Laugafell Hut marked the halfway point and was used as a resupply location, with stores being inserted by snowmobile and helicopter. The NLAI Sulur Rescue Team from Akureyri inserted storage drums containing food and fuel, with the 56th RQS flying in fresh batteries and much awaited mail. The team’s arrival proved to be very timely, as a ferocious storm soon moved in confining them to the hut for three days.
My diary extract:
2 April. - Day 30 Minus 8°C, visibility excellent.
"...when I woke the first thing I noticed was - silence! The storm had passed, we could move on as planned, good news. AC with good intentions mixed my hot chocolate with my ready brek (I'm not too keen on chocolate ready brek - couldn't tell him though). Bright sunshine today, landscape was different once again to what we have seen previously..."
My diary extract:
3 April. - Day 31 Minus 16°C , visibility excellent.
"...my left foot giving me lots of pain, when I bend my foot up mostly. At times I had to catch my breath and pause for a while. No visible marks though? On the comms check I needed to climb a nearby knoll to get through. Stood there with the sun setting, very pleasant (but cold!), white all around, flat mostly with a few weird towers jutting skyward..."
With mixed feelings the team moved into the Odadahraun, an area notorious for high winds and little snowfall. Warnings had been given to allow for a slow rate of travel and the possibility of exposed lava fields. These fields if very exposed would require the team to carry their equipment by hand - a very time consuming and physically demanding task. This technique was used in Norway, due to poor snow conditions, and was not an enjoyable experience.
My diary extract:
4 April - Day 32 Minus 25°C, visibility excellent.
"...very cold night, DT had frozen boots this morning. Overcast day with DT leading off. Big surprises as we entered the Odadahraun and the 'lava fields'. Plenty of snow, no problems moving, didn't even need to pick leads through the small lava fields showing. Straight Eastward - all happier!.."
The final resupply was organised at Egilsstadir and was manned by Ian, with support from the local Police and NLAI Rescue Team. On a successful rendezvous the group moved into a small chalet and spent three days preparing for the final push. The team had been slowly finding less snow leads and experiencing warmer temperatures the further East they pushed. With snow rapidly melting in the lowlands, this dictated that sledges would be discarded and the team wold continue with back packs. This change in carriage was to prove far more demanding than anticipated.
My diary extract:
17 April. - Day 45 Minus 15 °C, visibility 100 metres, mix of blizzards.
"...another back breaker of a day. The last two days have been the most difficult to date. Pushed out a big haul today and we all felt it - need to reach Gerpir on the 19th for recovery. Struggling all the way, legs very stiff, couldn't straighten them properly, very tight behind the knees, luckily my feet are OK. AC suffering due to his diarrhea. Hope it improves, so close to get any big problems - I'm confident he won't stop..."
The end was now in sight and Ian and Steve were soon busy coordinating the recovery plane. With the team moving into Sandvik Bay the plan was to pick them up by boat and return to the nearest town - Neskaupstadir. Shortly before leaving USNAS Ian received a call 'the boat would be unable to get into the bay due to the harsh sea conditions'. A quick map study and a call to the crossers arranged an alternative pick up point, 4 kilometres to the North in a more sheltered bay. Unfortunately this would mean the team climbing a ridge system they crossed earlier.
The VIP party arrived, consisting of Brigadier Tailyour, the Corps Regimental Sergeant Major, Major Marco Hekkens and the Commando News Team. Flying into Egilsstadir the group were met by the NLAI Isolfur and Gerpir Rescue Teams and transported by land and sea to the arranged rendezvous. After a rough sail through heavy snowfall the group had their first glimpse of the crossers moving of the ridge line.
Weary but triumphant they toasted their success with champagne also celebrating the first day of summer - a timely finish. A return journey there followed with a brief stop at Neskaupstadir to attend a reception hosted by the local Mayor.
My diary extract:
19 April. - Day 47 Minus 10 °C, visibility 500 metres, snow showers.
"...it seems a shame now that we have ended our epic journey, no more out in the elements, feeling the strain each day of the sledge. But equally in a way I am happy it is over, my body is very tired, my legs have some serious aches and pains in them. It will be good to get back home again and see familiar faces. It is as though a part of my life has ended, a four year dream now completed - what next?..."
The expedition spent the last week in Iceland repacking stores, resting and holding a reception to thank all those involved with project. The team managed to fit in some sight seeing and for one day becoming 'Ordinary Tourist'.
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